Install your Coverlight DIY blind Inside mount, Overroll
Step-by-step instructions for installing a manual overroll blind inside the window recess. Take your time, follow the steps in order, and you’ll be done in under an hour.
What you’ll need
From your toolbox
Power drill
2.5mm drill bit (timber, metal or plaster)
P2 Phillips screwdriver
Spirit level
Step ladder
Estimated time
~50 min
Per window. Add 10-15 min for masonry.
Step 0
Before you begin
This guide covers installation into timber, metal frames and plaster. Other surfaces have a slightly different process.
Installing into masonry, brick, concrete or tile
If you’re mounting onto a masonry surface, you must use the provided wall plugs. This requires a different drill and drill bit.
Follow the main installation guide, but when you reach a “pre-drill” step, use the method below instead.
Additional tools needed
Hammer drill (or a drill with a hammer function)
6mm masonry drill bit
6mm spear-tipped (or diamond-tipped) tile drill bit (if drilling on tiles)
Hammer
Masking tape
Special instructions for tiled surfaces
If your mounting surface is tile, use this technique to avoid cracking the tile:
Place a piece of masking tape over each marked hole position. This stops the drill bit from slipping.
Insert a 6mm spear-tipped tile drill bit into your drill.
Important: ensure the hammer function on your drill is turned off.
Drill slowly and with steady pressure through the tile.
Once you’re through the tile and have hit the brick or concrete behind it, stop.
Switch to your 6mm masonry drill bit and proceed with the masonry method below.
Masonry drilling method
Mark your holes: position your frame component and mark the screw locations with a pencil.
Drill for plugs: using your hammer drill and a 6mm masonry bit, drill a hole at each mark, slightly deeper than the wall plug (approx. 30mm).
Clean the holes: clear all dust with a vacuum or brush. Crucial for a secure fit.
Insert the plugs: push a wall plug from your masonry kit into each hole and tap gently with a hammer until flush with the wall.
Secure the component: align your frame piece with the plugged holes and drive the screws in with a hand screwdriver.
Installing into plaster
For a secure installation into a plaster wall, fasten your screws into the solid timber or metal stud behind the plasterboard.
How to know if you’ve missed a stud
When you pre-drill your pilot holes, you’ll feel one of two things:
Solid resistance: the drill pushes against firm resistance. You’ve hit a stud and can drive your screw directly into this hole.
Sudden give: the drill bit pushes through the plaster with almost no resistance. You’re in a hollow section. A standard screw won’t hold here. Use a suitable plaster plug.
What to do if you miss a stud
Buy suitable plaster plugs (also called drywall anchors) from your local hardware store. Choose an anchor rated for the weight of your blind and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Get ready
Preparation
Gather your tools, check your kit, and clear your workspace before you start.
From your Coverlight box
Check all parts against the included checklist
If you selected a masonry surface, ensure you have your masonry kit
Prepare your workspace
Clear the area in front of your window
Unpack your blind components and inspect them for any transit damage
15 steps
Installation steps
Follow these in order. Each step builds on the last.
1 Remove the blind roll
Using a P2 screwdriver, unscrew and remove the front pelmet cover.
Retract the pin on the idler end of the blind roll.
Carefully lift the idler end out first, then slide the entire roll out of the headbox.
Set the roll and front cover safely aside.
Stage 1Stage 2Stage 3Stage 4
Parts reference
AFront pelmet
BRear pelmet
CFabric roll
DLeft side channel cover
ERight side channel cover
FLeft side channel
GRight side channel
HU-channel
ILeft front cover
JRight front cover
2 Position the pelmet
Position & centre: place the pelmet in the top of the recess and centre it using a tape measure. The front face of the pelmet end caps must sit perfectly flush with the front edge of your window recess or architrave.
Mark the holes: mark the screw locations through the pre-drilled holes. Remove the pelmet.
Pre-drill pilot holes: using a 2.5mm drill bit, pre-drill pilot holes on your marks to a depth of 20-25mm.
Stage 1Stage 2Stage 3Stage 4Stage 5
Note
Light Block will expand up to 15mm between the Coverlight and the window frame.
Pro-tip: controlling drill depth
Measure 20mm from the tip of your drill bit and wrap a piece of masking tape around it. Drill into the frame until the edge of the tape is flush with the surface.
Warning: drilling into plaster
If your drill bit suddenly pushes through with no resistance, you’ve missed the stud. Do not drive a screw into this hole. Use a plaster plug. See the “Installing into plaster” guide at the top of this page.
3 Apply light seal to the pelmet
A note on the pelmet material
The main pelmet is constructed from genuine Colorbond® steel. You may notice some slight waviness along its surface. This is a normal characteristic of this strong, durable material and doesn’t affect strength or function. It will be completely concealed by the decorative front pelmet cover in the final step.
Remove the protective film from the rear pelmet component.
Use the provided alcohol wipe to thoroughly clean all surfaces of the pelmet where the foam will be applied.
Apply the top rear seal:
Measure the top rear edge of the pelmet.
Cut a piece of expanding foam 6-10mm longer than this measurement.
Peel the adhesive backing and apply the foam to the top rear edge, centring it so 3-5mm overhangs on both sides of the headbox.
Using the 3mm Allen key or screwdriver, pierce the Light Block from the top through the holes.
Apply the pelmet side seals:
Measure the height of the flat outer face of the end cap on one side of the pelmet.
Cut a piece of foam 3-5mm longer than this measurement.
Apply the foam so it sits flush against the overhanging top seal, creating a neat butt join in the corner. This will leave a 3-5mm overhang at the bottom.
Repeat for the other side of the pelmet.
Stage 1
Pro-tip: applying the foam
Press down firmly along its entire length to ensure a strong bond. Do not stretch the foam as you apply it, as this will reduce its ability to expand and seal gaps.
4 Mount the pelmet
Loosely secure: position the pelmet back in place. Insert only the outer screws but tighten them halfway. The pelmet should be held securely but remain loose enough to be adjusted.
5 Apply light seal to the side channels
Take both side channels and remove their front covers by rotating them outwards. Set the covers aside.
Use the provided alcohol wipe to clean the rear surfaces of one side channel and its corresponding foot piece.
Apply the channel foot seal:
Measure the foot piece for one side channel.
Cut a piece of foam 10mm wider than the foot.
Apply the foam to the bottom of the foot, centring it so 5mm overhangs on each side.
Apply the side channel rear seal:
Measure the full length of the back of one side channel.
Cut a piece of foam to this exact length.
Peel the backing and apply the foam to the rear of the channel, ensuring it sits flush with the bottom edge.
Using the 3mm Allen key or screwdriver, pierce the Light Block from the top through the holes.
Repeat for the second channel: repeat steps 2, 3 and 4 for the remaining side channel assembly.
Stage 1Stage 2Stage 3Stage 4Stage 5Stage 6Stage 7
Pro-tip
Press the foam down firmly along its entire length for a strong bond. Don’t stretch it as you apply.
6 Attach the side channels
With the rear pelmet loosely mounted, attach both left and right side channels until they lock into place. Let them hang freely.
Stage 1Stage 2Stage 3
7 Level & lock the pelmet
Place your spirit level inside the pelmet against the rear folded edge.
Level the pelmet by raising or lowering the side channels.
Square the pelmet by adjusting the channels forward or backward until it is visually straight.
Once level and square, tighten the pelmet’s mounting screws until the head makes gentle, firm contact.
8 Pin the top corners
With the pelmet locked in its final position, you’ll now secure the top of the side channels.
Focus on one side channel. Place your spirit level against the face and front edge of the top portion of the channel.
Using a hand screwdriver, insert the top screw until it makes contact with the side channel.
Repeat for the opposite side channel’s top corner.
Stage 1Stage 2Stage 3Stage 4
9 Apply light seal to the U-channel
Use the provided alcohol wipe to thoroughly clean all surfaces of the U-channel where the foam will be applied.
Measure the width of the bottom opening between the bottom of the side rails.
Cut a piece of foam to this exact length and apply it to the bottom surface of the U-channel. This will seal against the foot and your window sill.
Using the 3mm Allen key or screwdriver, pierce the Light Block from the top where the holes are.
Stage 1Stage 2
Pro-tip
Press the foam down firmly along its entire length. Don’t stretch it as you apply.
10 Install and level the bottom of the frame
Position bottom U-channel:
Slide the bottom U-channel into place on the sill, between the two side channels.
Align the U-channel so its rear edge is flush with the rear edge of the side channels.
Push both side channels snugly against the ends of the U-channel.
Find the square position:
Place your spirit level vertically on one of the side channels.
Gently slide the entire bottom assembly (U-channel with both side channels pressed against it) left or right on your sill until the spirit level shows the side channel is perfectly plumb.
Verify: move your spirit level to the opposite side channel. It should also be plumb. This confirms your frame is now in the correct, square position.
Level and position the bottom U-channel:
Place your spirit level on the bottom U-channel.
Manually lift one end of the U-channel until the bubble is centred.
While holding it level, also ensure its top surface aligns with the bottom opening of the side channels, creating a continuous, seamless track.
Secure the channels and bottom U-channel:
While the U-channel is held perfectly level, confirm both side channels are pushed snugly against its ends.
Using a hand screwdriver, drive the screws directly through the pre-drilled holes in the side channels.
Tighten each screw only until the head just makes gentle contact with the component. Do not tighten any further.
Do the same for the screws in the bottom U-channel.
Stage 1Stage 2Stage 3Stage 4Stage 5Stage 6
Pro-tip: using Light Block as a packer
If you need to raise the U-channel to make it level, use your excess Light Block as a permanent packer.
Cut a piece of Light Block to the length of the gap.
Apply this new piece directly on top of the existing foam seal on the U-channel in the gapped area. You can stack additional layers if needed.
How it works
You’re creating a “floating frame.” The screws are not meant to pull the frame hard against the wall. They act as “stops” to hold the frame in its perfect position. The expanding foam seal will now slowly expand, pushing the frame outwards until it presses firmly against the screw heads, creating a solid, secure, perfectly aligned fit.
Reassurance
If this process creates a gap between your U-channel and an unlevel window sill, don’t worry. The expanding foam seal is designed to fill this space and ensure a complete light seal.
Warning: drilling into plaster
If your drill bit suddenly pushes through with no resistance, you’ve missed the stud. Do not drive a screw into this hole. Use a plaster plug. See the “Installing into plaster” guide at the top of this page.
11 Apply the bottom fur seal
This final seal closes any potential light gaps between the frame and the window sill.
Prepare the surface: use the provided alcohol wipe to thoroughly clean the rear vertical edge of the bottom U-channel, from the inside of one side channel foot all the way across to the other. Allow it to dry completely.
Apply the fur seal:
Peel back a small section of the adhesive backing from the end of the fur strip.
Starting at the inside edge of one side channel foot, press the fur seal firmly onto the back edge of the U-channel.
Continue to peel the backing as you press the fur seal along the entire length, finishing at the inside edge of the opposite side channel foot.
Ensure a strong bond: run your finger firmly along the entire length of the fur seal to ensure it has bonded with the frame.
Pro-tip
For a perfect fit, cut the fur seal a few millimetres longer than needed and trim it precisely once it’s in place.
Spring or motor?
For spring (manual) blinds, continue to Step 12 below. For motorised blinds, follow Step 12 first to install the roll, then see the motor programming guide.
12 Install the zero-touch spring blind roll
With the frame fully installed, you can now insert the blind roll. Follow these steps carefully to ensure the zero-touch spring mechanism works perfectly.
Important: check spring preload before starting
Before installation, check your blind roll. The bottom rail should be no more than 100mm from the main fabric roll. If it has unrolled further, simply rotate the roll by hand to wind the extra fabric back on. Ensure the retaining pin on the spring end remains facing outwards.
Critical: do not remove the retaining pin
The retaining pin holds the spring’s tension. Do not remove this pin at this stage. It must only be removed after the blind roll is fully and securely installed in its brackets. Removing the pin prematurely will cause the spring to unwind and will permanently damage the mechanism.
Insert the spring end first: identify the spring end of your blind roll. You’ll see a flat tab and a small retaining pin. With this retaining pin facing outwards (towards you, not the glass), slide the tab securely into the corresponding bracket inside the pelmet. This end must go in first.
Insert the idler (pin) end: check that the retractable locking pin on the other end of the roll is pushed in (retracted). Now lift this end and guide it into its bracket inside the pelmet.
Engage the idler pin: once the roll is in place, release the retractable idler pin so it extends and locks securely into the bracket. You should hear or feel it click into position.
Confirm the roll is secure: before activating the spring, gently hold the blind roll and try to move it back and forth. There should be no significant movement, and both ends should feel firmly locked into the brackets.
Activate the spring: now pull the retaining pin out from the spring end to engage the zero-touch mechanism. There’s a dedicated storage hole on the end cap where you can place this pin for safekeeping.
Test the operation: gently pull the bottom rail down about halfway and let go. The blind should roll up smoothly and completely to the top.
Engage the bottom lock: when the blind is fully lowered, the bottom rail is designed to lock into the bottom U-channel. This prevents any minor “creep” or drifting over time, ensuring a complete seal at the bottom.
Note
At this stage, with the front covers removed, there’s very little friction on the blind fabric. Because of this, the blind is expected to roll up on its own. This is the correct behaviour for this step.
Critical: future removal of the blind roll
To prevent permanent damage, you must follow this specific procedure to disengage the spring tension before removing the blind roll.
Roll the blind all the way up to the top.
Take the retaining pin from its storage spot on the end cap.
While the blind is near the top, gently move it up and down slightly until you can push the retaining pin all the way in to the hole on the spring end. You’ll feel it locate and lock the spring tension.
Only once the spring tension is locked by the pin can you safely retract the locking pin on the idler end and remove the blind roll.
Failure to follow this procedure will cause the spring to rapidly unwind, permanently damaging the mechanism. This is not covered under warranty.
13 Install the final covers
Re-install the side channel front covers:
Take the long front covers you set aside earlier.
Re-install them by engaging the inner edge into the side channel first, then snapping the outer edge securely into place. Start from the bottom and work your way up.
Install the bottom corner covers:
Take the two small corner cover pieces.
Align one cover with the join where the side channel meets the bottom U-channel.
Slide it over the end of the bottom U-channel until it sits flush, neatly covering the join.
Repeat for the other side.
14 Attach the front pelmet
This is the final step to complete the look of your new blind.
Prepare the pelmet: just before you attach the front pelmet, carefully peel off the protective plastic film from its surface.
Angle and position the top: hold the front pelmet cover at a slight angle. Insert the top lip of the pelmet into the gap between the top of your window frame and the main pelmet.
Pivot the bottom into place: once the top is securely in position, pivot the bottom of the pelmet cover backwards towards the blind until it sits flush and firm against the main headbox, creating a seamless look.
Fasten the retaining screws: insert the provided colour-matched screws into the pre-drilled holes on the front face of the pelmet. Tighten them until they’re firm, but be careful not to over-tighten.
15 Final inspection for light leaks
Congratulations on completing the installation. The final step is to check the light-blocking performance.
A. How to perform the check
Fully close your Coverlight blind until the bottom rail is locked in the U-channel.
Darken the room by closing the door and turning off all interior lights.
Allow your eyes to adjust to the darkness for a few minutes.
Inspect the perimeter of the blind frame, looking straight on at the edges and corners.
B. What to look for and what to expect
It’s important to understand the two different areas where you might see light.
1. Light around the outside of the frame
What you might see: some small slivers of light between the outer edge of your blind frame and the window recess immediately after installation.
What to do: nothing. The expanding foam seal is designed to slowly swell and fill these gaps. Allow up to 7 days for the foam to expand fully and create a complete seal. This is a normal part of the process.
2. Light within the frame
What to look for:
Pinpricks of light coming through the middle of the fabric itself, away from the edges
Significant or uneven gaps between the moving blind fabric and the inside of the side channels
What to do: if you notice light leaks within the frame that aren’t related to the outer foam seal, refer to our online troubleshooting guide or contact our support team. A photo of the issue will help us resolve it quickly.
